The activewear industry is undergoing a fundamental shift toward sustainability. Major brands have committed to using recycled materials, eliminating harmful chemicals, and reducing their environmental footprint. For brands and manufacturers, these commitments are not just marketing claims. They require verifiable certifications and transparent supply chains that prove the sustainability of their products.
This article examines the key certifications that define sustainable activewear, including GRS, OEKO-TEX, GOTS, and others. It explains what each certification covers, why it matters, and how brands can use these standards to verify their supply chain and choose the right partners. For OEM and ODM sportswear partnerships, understanding these certifications is essential for building credible sustainability claims and accessing markets with growing environmental requirements.
Understanding the Certification Landscape
The textile certification landscape can be confusing. Each certification addresses different aspects of sustainability: recycled content, chemical safety, organic materials, or production processes. Understanding the distinctions helps brands select the right certifications for their products.
GRS and RCS focus on recycled materials and supply chain traceability. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 focuses on chemical safety and harmful substance testing. GOTS addresses organic textile production from farm to finished product. Bluesign evaluates the entire production process for environmental and safety performance. Some suppliers hold multiple certifications, demonstrating comprehensive sustainability practices.
The choice of certification depends on the product’s materials and the brand’s sustainability claims. A product made with recycled polyester needs GRS or RCS. A product that claims to be free of harmful chemicals needs OEKO-TEX. A product made with organic cotton needs GOTS or OCS. Brands should select the certifications that align with their materials and claims.
GRS: The Global Recycled Standard
Overview and Purpose
The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is the most widely recognized certification for recycled materials in textiles. It is administered by Textile Exchange, an international nonprofit organization that promotes sustainable textile practices. GRS covers the entire supply chain, from recycled material sourcing to the finished product, and ensures that recycled materials are accurately claimed and traced.
GRS is not limited to textiles. It applies to all products containing recycled materials, including plastics, glass, and leather, as long as the recycled content meets the minimum requirements. However, it is most commonly applied to textiles and apparel.
Key Requirements for Certification
GRS has four main pillars: traceability, environmental management, social criteria, and chemical management.
Traceability is the foundation of GRS. The standard requires a complete chain of custody from the recycled material supplier to the final product. Each company in the supply chain must be GRS-certified, and each transaction must be documented with a Transaction Certificate (TC) . The TC verifies the flow of recycled materials and ensures that they have not been mixed with non-recycled materials. The supply chain operates on a “mass balance” principle, meaning that the total recycled material input must match the output. If a company cannot trace its recycled materials, it cannot claim GRS compliance.
Environmental management requires GRS-certified facilities to have documented procedures for environmental protection . This includes wastewater treatment that meets local standards, energy and water consumption records, and proper waste segregation and disposal. Facilities must demonstrate that they are actively managing their environmental impact.
Social criteria align with international labor standards. GRS-certified facilities must comply with ILO core labor standards, including no child or forced labor, fair wages, and safe working conditions . Regular social audits are required to verify compliance.
Chemical management restricts the use of harmful chemicals. The GRS prohibited substances list (RSL) bans specific chemical classes, and facilities must maintain a chemical inventory and management system . This ensures that the recycling process does not introduce harmful substances into the final product.
The 20% Threshold
To qualify for GRS certification, a product must contain at least 20% recycled material. If a brand wants to label its product with the GRS logo and make a GRS claim, the product must contain at least 50% recycled material. This distinction is important for brands planning their product and marketing strategy.
GRS vs. RCS
GRS has a counterpart called the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS). Both standards track recycled content, but they have different requirements :
| Feature | GRS | RCS |
|---|---|---|
| Minimum recycled content for certification | 20% | 5% |
| Minimum recycled content for labeling | 50% | 5% |
| Environmental audit | Required | Not required |
| Social audit | Required | Not required |
| Chemical management | Required | Not required |
The key difference is that GRS requires full environmental, social, and chemical compliance, while RCS only verifies that the recycled content is present and traceable. GRS provides stronger assurance but requires more investment. RCS offers a lower barrier to entry but provides less comprehensive verification. For activewear brands, GRS is generally recommended because it supports a full sustainability claim and meets the expectations of major retailers and brands.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Overview and Purpose
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a global certification system for textile products that are free from harmful substances. It was developed by the OEKO-TEX Association in 1992 and is now recognized in over 100 countries. The certification covers textiles at all stages of production, from raw materials to finished garments, including all components like yarn, fabric, zippers, buttons, and labels.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is not a sustainability certification in the sense of environmental impact. It is a safety certification. Its purpose is to ensure that textiles do not contain harmful levels of chemicals that could affect human health. This makes it particularly relevant for products that are worn close to the skin, such as activewear.
The Four Product Classes
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is based on a four-tier product class system that determines the testing requirements. The class is determined by the product’s intended use and contact with skin:
Class I is for products for babies and toddlers up to 36 months. This class has the strictest requirements because babies’ skin is the most sensitive. Examples include baby clothing, bedding, and soft toys.
Class II is for products that have direct and prolonged contact with the skin. This includes most garments such as T-shirts, underwear, and bed sheets. This is the class that typically applies to activewear.
Class III is for products that have limited or indirect contact with the skin. This includes jackets, coats, and other outerwear.
Class IV is for furnishing and decorative materials. This includes curtains, upholstery fabrics, and similar products.
A product certified to a higher class automatically meets the requirements of lower classes . For example, a fabric certified for Class II (direct skin contact) can be used in Class III (outerwear), but not the reverse.
The Appendix System
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 offers two testing modules: Appendix 4 and Appendix 6 . These are essentially two levels of stringency.
Appendix 4 is the standard testing module. It covers over 300 substances that are known to be harmful to health . This includes substances regulated by law, such as banned azo dyes, formaldehyde, heavy metals, and pesticides. Appendix 4 is the most common choice for standard certification.
Appendix 6 is a more stringent module. It builds on Appendix 4, adding more substances and setting lower limits for many of them . Appendix 6 is designed for products that need to meet the highest sustainability standards, such as those for eco-conscious brands or consumers with sensitivities.
The choice of Appendix affects the cost of certification. Testing for Appendix 6 is more complex and therefore more expensive than Appendix 4 . However, it provides a stronger claim of product safety.
Substances Tested
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests for hundreds of harmful substances. The list is not static. It is updated regularly to include new substances of concern. The types of substances covered include:
- Substances banned by law, such as certain azo dyes, which can break down into carcinogenic amines; formaldehyde; and certain heavy metals.
- Substances not yet regulated but known to be harmful, such as some organotin compounds (TBT, DBT), certain phthalates, and certain flame retardants.
- Substances related to skin health, such as pH level, which should be close to neutral; and colorfastness, which prevents dyes from migrating to the skin.
- Other chemicals of concern, such as residual pesticides, chlorinated phenols, and APEOs (alkylphenol ethoxylates).
In total, the testing covers over 1,000 substances. This makes OEKO-TEX Standard 100 one of the most comprehensive systems for verifying chemical safety in textiles.
What OEKO-TEX Is Not
It is important to understand what OEKO-TEX Standard 100 does not cover. It does not assess the overall environmental impact of production, such as water or energy use. It does not certify social or labor conditions. It does not address the sustainability of materials, such as whether they are organic or recycled.
For a more holistic sustainability certification, OEKO-TEX offers other labels. OEKO-TEX STeP covers sustainable production facilities. OEKO-TEX MADE IN GREEN combines the harmful substance testing of Standard 100 with STeP, and it also includes traceability to the production facility. For activewear brands, using Standard 100 alongside GRS or GOTS can provide a more complete sustainability profile.
GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard
Overview and Purpose
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the leading certification for organic textiles. It covers the entire supply chain, from the organic fiber production to the finished product, and requires that products contain at least 70% organic fibers to carry the GOTS label. This certification ensures that the product is made from organic materials and that the processing meets strict environmental and social criteria.
Key Principles
GOTS covers a broad range of requirements. The fiber source must be certified organic according to recognized standards. The supply chain is fully traceable, with all participants requiring certification and transactions documented through Transaction Certificates. The standard includes strict environmental criteria, treating wastewater before discharge, monitoring energy use, and prohibiting certain toxic chemicals. Social criteria based on ILO core standards, including living wages and safe working conditions, must be met. Additionally, GOTS prohibits harmful chemicals and requires that all inputs meet low-toxicity standards.
GOTS 8.0 Update
A significant update to GOTS is underway. The GOTS 8.0 revised draft was released in January 2025, with the final version expected in March 2026 and becoming effective in March 2027. This updated version reinforces the requirements for traceability, introduces new requirements for environmental management, expands the list of permitted and prohibited substances, and includes new provisions for the circular economy, including packaging and end-of-life management.
Other Relevant Certifications
Bluesign
Bluesign is a system that evaluates the entire textile supply chain. It assesses raw materials, chemical inputs, production processes, and environmental performance. The aim is to eliminate harmful substances from the beginning of the process. A “Bluesign approved” fabric or product is one where the entire process has been verified to meet strict safety and environmental standards. For activewear brands, sourcing from a Bluesign partner can simplify compliance and reduce the need for extensive testing. LYCRA® fiber is an example of a product that has achieved Bluesign certification.
OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT
This is a certification specifically for chemicals and chemical preparations used in textile production. It verifies that the chemicals are suitable for use in sustainable textile production and comply with international regulations. This is relevant for manufacturers who can demonstrate that their chemical inputs are safe.
OEKO-TEX MADE IN GREEN
This label is for products that are made with materials that have been tested for harmful substances (via Standard 100 or LEATHER STANDARD) in a facility that has been assessed for sustainable production (via STeP) and with traceability to the production facility. This is the highest level of OEKO-TEX certification and provides the most comprehensive assurance.
Higg Index
The Higg Index is a suite of tools developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. It measures the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products across the supply chain, including water use, energy, waste, and chemicals. It is widely used by brands to benchmark and improve their sustainability performance, though it is not a certification like GRS or OEKO-TEX.
How to Choose Suppliers for a Sustainable Supply Chain
Building a sustainable supply chain requires systematic verification of supplier credentials, capabilities, and commitment.
Requesting and Verifying Certificates
The first step is to request certificates from potential suppliers. For GRS, this means asking for the supplier’s Scope Certificate (SC) and Transaction Certificate (TC). The SC proves that the supplier is certified to handle GRS materials. The TC proves that a specific transaction of GRS material has been verified. These can be checked on the Textile Exchange website. For OEKO-TEX, request the valid OEKO-TEX certificate, which is valid for one year and must be renewed annually. For GOTS, request the supplier’s GOTS Scope Certificate.
When checking the certificate, verify that it is current (not expired), that the facility name and address match the supplier’s information, and that the certificate covers the specific product category. For example, a GRS certificate for polyester yarn does not cover the use of GRS-certified polyester fabric. The certificate must match the material in question.
The Importance of Full Supply Chain Certification
GRS and GOTS require that every company in the supply chain be certified. This is known as the chain of custody. For example, a GRS garment requires that the recycled fiber supplier, the yarn spinner, the fabric mill, the finishing plant, and the garment manufacturer all have valid GRS certificates. Any company holding a valid certificate is audited annually to ensure ongoing compliance. A common obstacle is a supplier who is not yet certified. In this case, the brand can work with the supplier to get them certified. This typically takes several months and requires the supplier to implement the required management systems.
Certified Suppliers in the Market
Many major suppliers already hold key certifications. LYCRA® fibers, for instance, are OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified at the highest level (Class I, Appendix 6). UPW, a major yarn supplier, holds multiple certifications, including GOTS, GRS, and OEKO-TEX. The Chinese textile manufacturer Funeng has obtained OEKO-TEX Standard 100, GRS, Bluesign, and other certifications, demonstrating that comprehensive sustainability systems are increasingly common in the global textile industry.
Integration into Brand Operations
Brands should integrate sustainability requirements into their design and sourcing processes, not add them at the end. This means specifying materials with certifications upfront, developing a system to track certificate statuses, and planning for regular supplier audits and site visits.
Beyond the Certificate
A certificate is a good start, but a partnership is better. Develop relationships with suppliers who share your sustainability goals and who can provide more than just a piece of paper. Suppliers who are active in industry working groups, who have public sustainability reports, or who are willing to share their production data are likely to be more committed partners.
Conclusion
The shift toward sustainable activewear is accelerating. For brands, this shift requires a clear understanding of the certification landscape and a systematic approach to supply chain verification.
GRS is the primary standard for verifying recycled content, requiring traceability, environmental management, and social compliance. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 assures that products are free from harmful substances, with different levels of stringency available. GOTS covers organic textiles from farm to finished product. Bluesign evaluates the entire production process.
When selecting suppliers, brands should verify certificates, check the chain of custody, and build relationships with suppliers who share their sustainability goals. For OEM and ODM sportswear partnerships, clear certification requirements from the outset ensure that products can be marketed with credible sustainability claims.
Investing in sustainable supply chains is not just a response to regulatory pressure or consumer demand. It is a strategic advantage that builds brand trust, differentiates products, and positions brands for long-term success in a market where sustainability is increasingly a baseline expectation. By understanding and implementing these certifications, activewear brands can transform their sustainability commitments from claims into verifiable realities.
